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Grape vines in autumn in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia in the Penèdes region. photo by Angela Llop (CC BY-SA 2.0) via Flickr.
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Montserrat from Sant Llorenç d'Hortons in the Alt Penedès. Photo by Angela Llop (CC BY-SA 2.0) via Flickr.
Catalan wine is known for its unique personality. The Mediterranean grape varieties used here, coupled with the warm climate, tend to produce wines that are high in alcohol and enjoyed for their full-bodied flavor. Aside from the excellent wine, many of the best vineyards in Catalunya are located in outstandingly beautiful areas and housed in buildings that ooze history and character. We’ve chosen four of the best for an autumnal tasting trip.
Castell de Peralada. Photo by Gordito1869 (CC BY 3.0) via Wikimedia Commons.
Castell de Peralada
The Empordà is a vast golden plain northeast of Barcelona in the Girona province, renowned for its extensive grapevines, which are fed by a soil rich in granite and lime. Right in the middle, you can find the imposing fortress of Castell de Peralada, whose striking twin towers have become synonymous with quality wine. There are records of winemaking taking place at this medieval castle since it was first built hundreds of years ago, and so, naturally, the vineyards surrounding the ancient structure have had plenty of practice at producing a decent bottle. The production process combines traditional techniques cultivated over centuries, with cutting edge winemaking technology. The castle offers excellent guided tours around the vineyards and bodegas, complete with tastings. The on-site monastery also houses the Wine Museum, a historical collection showcasing the development of winemaking through the ages.
There are a number of tour options available. A tour of the castle museum plus a tasting of three wines costs €35 per person and lasts three hours. Or, book a private tour with a tasting of four of the vineyard's finest wines for €80. perelada.com
Caves Codorníu, Sant Sadurni d'Anoia. Photo courtesy of Caves Codorníu (CC BY-SA 2.0) via Wikimedia Commons.
Codorníu
Located on a plateau near the sea, Alt Penedès is a privileged region, protected by rolling hills and mountains, and blessed by the mild climate of the Mediterranean coast. Its permeable soil, rich in phosphorus, makes this ideal grape-growing land. It is also the birthplace of cava. The town of Sant Sadurní d'Anoia began producing the sparkling wine in 1872, using the traditional Penedès grape varieties macabeo, xarel·lo and parellada. Since then, the cava-producing sector has become the most successful in the Catalan wine industry. There are 80 wineries around Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, which produce 70 percent of Spanish sparkling wine.
One of the best known cava producers—and the oldest family business in Spain—is Codorníu, owned by a family of winegrowers dating back to the 16th century. Guided tours allow the visitor a comprehensive view of the whole vineyard, including the expansion designed by architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch, a contemporary of Antoni Gaudí, in 1895. His stunning art nouveau building, with vaulted arches and stained glass windows, was declared an Historical Artistic Monument in 1976.
The best part of the Codorníu tour takes place underground in the labyrinth of cellars. Here, ageing at a constant temperature, the cavas undergo their second fermentation. A miniature train takes you around the cellar as you discover traditional cava-making machinery and the history and heritage of the Codorníu family.
Guided tours cost €25 per head for adults, and €18.75 for children aged eight to 17. Younger children can take the tour for free. The tour includes tastings of two cavas from Codorníu’s premium range. codorniu.com
The Cellers de Scala Dei go back to the nineteenth century when local families acquired the lands of the former monastery and became the pioneers of bottling wine in Priorat. Photo by Joan GGK (CC BY 2.0) via Wikimedia Commons.
Scala Dei
The Priorat is a small area of black hills clustered around the town of Gratallops, and it is here that, for over eight centuries, a deep red wine known for its intensity has been produced. Considered by many to be among Catalunya’s finest wines, the richness of flavor comes in part from the mineral-rich slate-and-quartzite soil (known as llicorella). Carthusian monks began to cultivate the region's first vines in 1095. These are grown on terraced slopes, which contribute to the area’s unique aesthetic as well as making for back-breaking manual work. The Priorat has enjoyed a rebirth over the last few decades and the new Priorat has gained a strong international reputation.
Scala Dei is a must-visit winery in the region due to its long winemaking history, its quality wines and beautiful location near the ruins of the medieval Carthusian monastery. In 1844, four families bought the monastery ruins and the surrounding land to produce wine and promote the cultivation of vines in the area, and in 1878, the first bottles of Priorat wine left the winery on their way to the Universal Exhibition in Paris. Wine production continued in the area until the late 19th century, when many vineyards were destroyed by the phylloxera pest, causing widespread economic ruin and emigration. In 1974, Cellers de Scala Dei was re-founded and launched the first "modern" Priorat wines on the market. Until the wine boom of the early nineties, it was one of the few private wineries that bottled wines from the region.
For €25 per person you can take a tour of the bodega to learn about its centuries-old history, the terroir, varieties and production techniques followed by a tasting of the four best-known wines from the winery. Or, for €80 you can experience a full tasting which includes eight or nine wines starting with young, fresh and fruity wines through to the most intense and complex single-vintage wines. cellersdescaladei.com
Celler Mas Vicenç.
Celler Mas Vicenç
The region of Terra Alta is the highest winemaking region in Catalunya. It’s also the D.O. that’s furthest inland, boasting rich chalk-based soil and a cultural history that predates Roman occupation.
This particular geography produces full-bodied red wines with a freshness fostered by the height of the vines. The red grape varieties here are mostly garnatxa, carinyena and syrah with small amounts of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and morenillo. Similar to pinot noir, morenillo exists only in this small region.
Owned and run by two generations of the Ferré family, Celler Mas Vicenç is a five-generation-old family winery, which exudes enthusiasm and passion for the local wine culture. Its award-winning wines are superb and you get to sample them all, along with some olives and cheese, during a 75-minute tour of the vineyard at a very reasonable €12 for adults, while accompanying children from 10 to 18 can visit for €3 and younger children for free. The vineyard also offers a program of regular themed activities, including a chocolate and wine tasting at €18 per head, a "walk and wine" hike for €16 to €20. masvicens.com
Published November 8, 2017, updated November 11, 2024.