Image courtesy of Karuna Social Program.
You’ve likely heard the term “slow fashion” in the media recently, or perhaps “ethical” or “conscious fashion.” They all mean slightly different things but point to the same shared objective of diminishing the harmful effects of fast fashion on both people and the environment.
As the state of our planet quickly deteriorates, the effect of fashion on the environment is becoming an increasingly urgent issue. The fashion industry sits in third place on the list of the world’s largest polluters, producing more emissions than both the aviation and shipping industries together. The EU has recently introduced measures to extend the life-span of garments in the hopes of promoting the use of sustainable fabrics. However, clothing still contributes 1.2 billion tons of CO2 emissions or equivalent to the atmosphere each year. While this legislation is a start, it cannot entirely undo the widespread fashion culture causing this damage; we need a complete overhaul of the way we think about the clothes we wear, or so suggests Kate Fletcher.
Image courtesy of Karuna Social Program.
Clothing, Consumption & Capitalism
Activist, author and academic Kate Fletcher believes fast fashion has less to do with the speed at which garments are produced, and more to do with their economic connotations. Major fashion brands produce identical garments in huge quantities using the cheapest materials, methods and labor possible to be mass-traded at a low cost. These low quality garments have a short life-span. Alongside shorter trend cycles, which are due in part to the fast-paced nature of social media platforms, this encourages more and more purchasing—and the cycle goes on.
Slow fashion, then, came about as a reaction to fast fashion. The term was first coined by Fletcher to describe a mentality promoting conscious choices. It’s about shifting our mindsets away from excessive consumption and towards an appreciation of the cultural significance and craftsmanship associated with the clothes we wear. According to this approach, using ethical practices as a means of economic growth misses the point somewhat. Indeed, this New York Times article delves into the lives of slow fashion influencers, positing the age-old question of whether consumption under capitalism can ever be ethical, if after all, despite all the thrifting and mending you do, you’re still promoting consumption?
Can we achieve slow fashion? Or is it completely impossible to make ethical purchasing decisions? Well, there is, unfortunately, no easy answer. Nonetheless, determined to see a version of slow fashion in action, I spoke to the Barcelona-based charity, Karuna Social Program.
Image courtesy of Karuna Social Program
Empowerment through Education & Employment
Karuna is a non-profit social project that works with vulnerable women in the Kathmandu Valley of Nepal, offering them training and full time employment in dressmaking. When I spoke to one of the founders, she said that the organization aims to empower women at risk of social exclusion to make their own choices in contexts where they often hold little decision-making power. Thus, through skill-building and employment, Karuna focus lies with the wellbeing and development of those making the clothing. The charity set up a school offering free professional training in crochet, stocking stitch, macramé, embroidery and sewing skills. The school runs courses throughout the year, from which some students are hired in the workshop, while others create products at home to sell independently and some even go on to set up their own businesses.
In the workshop, the employees design and create handmade products, mixing Nepalese and Indian fabrics with both contemporary and classic, long-lasting designs. The women produce men's wear and women's wear, children’s clothing, jewelry and home ware. All products are made from 100% sustainable, quality materials, in accordance with Fairtrade standards.
Image courtesy of Karuna Social Program.
Sourcing Locally
Karuna’s president, Eduardo Borés, sources fabrics from India and Nepal alike, carefully picking materials from local vendors. The workshop also produces fabrics using techniques like block printing. This means that no two pieces are the same. In the case that garments arrive with defects or perhaps don’t sell, they are repurposed: tops are made into bags and scarves into headbands. The products are then sold in Spain, with profits going directly back into the workshop, school and affiliated organizations—making the center self-sustaining.
“Equality, solidarity, sustainability and cooperation are the values that represent us,” the organization says. Thus, Karuna’s priorities change to meet the needs of those they aim to support. The charity’s focus over the last few years has been working to repair the damage caused by the 2015 earthquake that devastated the central region of Nepal, the effects of which are still felt today. Karuna collaborates with Hugging Nepal, an organization that was born out of the disaster, to offer economic and social support to those affected by the earthquake.
Karuna consciously uses the craftsmanship and cultural significance attributed to fashion as a means of improving the lives of vulnerable women. By taking that approach, slow fashion becomes more of a byproduct of what Karuna seeks to achieve than its core focus.
Karuna sell its products every Thursday and Friday at Merc&Cia (C/Corsega 299) and will be at the BCN el las Alturas market May 6-8, 2022.
You can follow Karuna’s Instagram to find out more, or make a donation at karunasocial.org.